Purfylle: Sottana bodice construction

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Monday, 17 February 2014

Sottana bodice construction

That gorgeous gold brocade just begged to become an Eleanora di Toledo 16thC Florentine gown.

Interlining

I started with the double layer of canvas interlining. One layer with seam allowances and one without.

interlining 2 layers of cotton duck


Then the canvas gets quilted together, here I'm using my seam gauge as a width guide for the stitching rows.

It's a bit repetitive so to keep focused and break up the monotony I mark up a few rows then stitch them, then mark up some more and stitch until the entire back and front are done. Some of the channels will be used as boning casings.

The quilting also stiffens the layers and helps with the bodice structure.

If you look closely in the pic below you can see the row of stay stitching around the seam allowance to control fraying.

quilting the quilting the layers together interlining together

Boning

Once the canvas is quilted together, I marked in the boning placement using the layout used in the Pflazagrafin corset.

I use plastic boning as it behaves the most like baleen (whalebone) although the boning I currently have isn't as thin as baleen.

There are 5 bones inserted in the centre front then every second channel, one down each side under the arm and also at the openings where the lacing will go. Each bone is secured at both ends with a few stitches.

At this stage I ummed and ahhed about adding a layer of padding between the outer fabric and the canvas, but it's so hot this week I decided that 4 layers (outer fabric, 2 layers of canvas plus another for lining) was plenty for this bodice. I'll probably add padding when I make the next one. (NB: I wish I had added the padding to hide the boning - oh well, next time)

Outer Fabric

I cut the outer fabric leaving very generous seam allowances, then machine basted it in place, turned in all the edges and hand stitched the outer fabric to the canvas catching the canvas layer, the canvas seam allowance and the outer fabric with each stitch. This helps keeps the canvas seam allowance from fraying and holds all the layers in place. I snapped a photo but missed focus, I'll try again when I do the shoulder straps.

adding the fashion fabric

Once that was done I turned under all the raw edges of the seam allowance under and whip stitched it to the canvas.

Next is stitching in the eyelets and then the shoulder straps can be joined and the lining added.



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