Purfylle: February HSM Wrap Up - Blue Challenge

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February HSM Wrap Up - Blue Challenge

At the start of the month I pondered what to make for the Blue HSM Challenge.

But did I stick to the plan?

1) Finish bustle UFO

I did not finish the bustle UFO.

However I did draft a pattern for the Woman's Bustle England, circa 1875 - LACMA and I made a mock-up. The pattern needs only a minor tweak.

Bustle English style 1875

2)  Tampico bustle mock-up 2.0

bustle style 1875-1880

The main change I wanted to make to the tampico bustle mockup this time was the pleat width. I used 1" pleats and I'm much happier with the results.

I used the binding attachment for binding the edges because I'm determined to get the hang of this gadget.  Just as I was finishing it up I realised that some of the issues I was having with it might actually be the differential feed on the machine and not because I'm using a cheap knock-off of the official attachment which is outrageously expensive. A few adjustment later and the results were much better, unfortunately I only figured this out on the last 2 binding strips.


binding attachment



This time I decided to try the bustle without the fabric side sections (because the stash did not provide). This puts the style somewhere between the 1880 bustle at the Met Museum and the other 1875 bustle at LACMA (as in the one I didn't make).

Complete! That's right, it did not become another UFO. It's not perfect but it is completely usable and not only did I get closer to having a perfected pattern I finally solved the issues with the binding attachment.

3) Satin Skirt UFO 

Well the skirt itself is still buried in the stash somewhere but I did make progress.

I decided I should start with pattern hunting for a Victorian bodice.

I found some bodice drafting instructions I might use from my digital libarary however they are a little later then I want so I shall keep looking.

Currently the choices are:

Every Lady her own Dress Maker published 1896 or the Ladies Tailor Complete Instructor published 1892.

Edit: While hunting down the links for the above two books I found  The Parissian Tailor Complete Instructor and Practical Guide to Ladies Tailoring; Third edition (incorrectly listed as the first edition by Open Library); published in 1895. This publication looks to be the most informative of the three.

Then I got side tracked in Open Library, here are some of the wonderful books I stumbled across;


I finally found this book:

Divisional and exact measurement systems for garment cutting New and rev. ed. - published 1876

where I decided I had best stop looking as that is around the correct date that I am after and there are many, many more tailoring books available. 

4) Wash the wool blend fabric.

Err, no, didn't happen.

Stay tuned for March challenge!



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