But did I stick to the plan?
1) Finish bustle UFOI did not finish the bustle UFO.
However I did draft a pattern for the Woman's Bustle England, circa 1875 - LACMA and I made a mock-up. The pattern needs only a minor tweak.
The main change I wanted to make to the tampico bustle mockup this time was the pleat width. I used 1" pleats and I'm much happier with the results.
I used the binding attachment for binding the edges because I'm determined to get the hang of this gadget. Just as I was finishing it up I realised that some of the issues I was having with it might actually be the differential feed on the machine and not because I'm using a cheap knock-off of the official attachment which is outrageously expensive. A few adjustment later and the results were much better, unfortunately I only figured this out on the last 2 binding strips.
This time I decided to try the bustle without the fabric side sections (because the stash did not provide). This puts the style somewhere between the 1880 bustle at the Met Museum and the other 1875 bustle at LACMA (as in the one I didn't make).
Complete! That's right, it did not become another UFO. It's not perfect but it is completely usable and not only did I get closer to having a perfected pattern I finally solved the issues with the binding attachment.
3) Satin Skirt UFOWell the skirt itself is still buried in the stash somewhere but I did make progress.
I decided I should start with pattern hunting for a Victorian bodice.
I found some bodice drafting instructions I might use from my digital libarary however they are a little later then I want so I shall keep looking.
Currently the choices are:
Every Lady her own Dress Maker published 1896 or the Ladies Tailor Complete Instructor published 1892.
Edit: While hunting down the links for the above two books I found The Parissian Tailor Complete Instructor and Practical Guide to Ladies Tailoring; Third edition (incorrectly listed as the first edition by Open Library); published in 1895. This publication looks to be the most informative of the three.
Then I got side tracked in Open Library, here are some of the wonderful books I stumbled across;
- The Parisian tailor system of dress cutting - published 1890
- The_tailoring_book published 1899
- The Tailor published 1830
- Instructions for using Fountain's tailor system of dress cutting... published 1883
- The international encyclopedia of scientific tailor principles published 1885
- Acton's improvements on The tailor's transfer published 1862
- Instruction book for the standard tailor system... published 1896
- The original American lady tailor system... published 1884
- Instruction book for the celebrated Worth tailor system published 1888
- H. Matheson's scientific and practical guide for the tailor's cutting department Published 1871
- The tailors' guide: containing systems of draughting frock and sack coats, pants, vests and shirts with valuable improvements, warranted superior to anything ever offered to the trade.- published 1868
- A plain and concise treatise of the art of tailoring - published 1844
Divisional and exact measurement systems for garment cutting New and rev. ed. - published 1876