Ruffler Foot Made Sew Easy It's Hands Free!

If you've ever used a ruffler foot you will know you need to guide your fabric carefully.

I've been making a Victorian Gown. That means lots of ruffley goodness. I have about 150 meters of ribbon I'm using on this project most of which I've been pleating using my sewing machines ruffler foot. 
Carefully guiding that much yardage through would drive me insane!

I needed a way to make it easy and fast without needing a lot of concentration.

I needed to automate guiding that ribbon through.

It's so easy and simple and effective I can't believe I didn't think of this earlier.

Nils Sture Doublet Pattern

Earlier this year I started work on patterns for the Sture lads from Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620.

JA's pattern for the leather doublet worn by Nils Sture

I still have a lot of work to do on these patterns to have them usable across a good size range. I remembered to take a few photos when I was working on Nils' doublet.

drafting the Nils Sture doublet pattern in the original size

I have graded the doublet up from the original size however I was not satisfied with the sleeves and will revisit them. I also think that most men are larger these days then the size chart I used and that the large is not large enough. 

correcting a mistake

Perhaps 2015 will take this pattern from a UFO to a sewing project. 

I did all of my pattern drafting and grading using old school methods as at the time I only had an Android tablet to use, however now that I have a Windows tablet with Inkscape installed I may redo everything digitally. 

Garments of Svante, Nils and Erik Sture. Image source: Pinterest

The only pattern I have digitally drafted so far is Dorothea's bodies which proved my paper patterns to be accurate. The benefit of digital drafting is easy resizing, but I would then also need to have them printed. Somehow it's not as satisfying making a digital pattern. 

Have you made or graded your own patterns? Until I tried to grade a pattern for the first time I didn't realise how different it was to making just a single pattern to fit an individual. 








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