How To Make Continuous Bias Binding From A Rectangle

There are several ways to go about cutting and sewing bias binding tape. They've all got their pro's and con's. I'm going to show you my favourite method, but first I'll discuss the strip-by-strip method and the continuous method using a square of fabric.

Whichever method you use you'll start with deciding how wide you want your finished binding to be and multiply that by four. For example if you want a 1/4 inch wide finish on your hem you want to cut 1 inch wide strips. (unless you want double fold bias binding in which case you multiply by six).

Strip-by-Strip Method
2

Pleating Froufy

cartridge pleats

Last year my Big Froufy Gown was such a last minute rush I was sewing on the morning of the fair. The skirt waistband was the dodgiest last minute fix. I just stitched ribbon on and relied on the bodice to cover it.

super dodgy last minute make it wearable NOW fix

This year the skirt is getting a proper waist band and cartridge pleats. It's also getting the over-skirt which means more pleats. The front is left flat and the pleats are denser at the back then at the sides. 

cartridge pleats pinned in place

To bustle the skirt I'd cut some lengths of cotton tape, laid the skirt on the table inside out and pinned a length of tape along each of the side back seams about 3 minutes before putting the skirt on. I didn't have time to see if the positioning and spacing was going to work or not.

safety pins to the rescue

In the car park at the fair I realised the hem was off the ground so I took the bottom row of pins out and hopped I didn't flash anyone. 

Now that the waist band is on I will be able to revisit the tapes to achieve a more pleasing arrangement.

if using safety pins to bustle a gown only pin on seam allowances

I wont' be making any changes to the hem or decorations. I did want to swap the pocket out but I don't think I'm going to have time to do so.

when not bustled this gown has a small train

I've got lots more in store for you however you may have to wait just a little longer. I'm behind schedule and there's only 3 days left to the Guildford Heritage Festival.

Comments

  1. PurpleSlob InRecovery1 April 2016 at 06:00

    Wow, so much work!! Just to wear at the fair??
    Cartridge pleats??
    Is the last picture the train of the gown?
    Gorgeous! Can't wait to hear all about it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Purfylle1 April 2016 at 07:04

      So much work - just to test the pattern and use up some of the synthetic fabrics in my stash - wearing it at the fair is a bonus. Cartridge pleats are an old fashioned method of pleating https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pleat#Cartridge_pleats. Yes, that last pic is the train.

      Delete
  2. Jenny Evans7 April 2016 at 01:19

    Holy cow! I can't tell up and down in these pictures but somehow you're making it look great.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Purfylle7 April 2016 at 10:27

      It's such a big skirt I don't really have the space to fit the whole thing into a shot, I'll have to see if I can do something about that.

      Delete

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